For years, conventional research emphasized that bacteria is bad for humans, and must be flushed out completely. Companies responded to this need for an “ultra clean” persona, and soon antibacterial products proliferated into supermarket shelves and consumer homes. However, microbiological research in recent years has squashed old beliefs that all bacteria is bad. Studies now show that many antibacterial chemicals are far more hazardous than the bacteria they were designed to kill. One example is triclosan, a chemical originally manufactured in soaps, now banned by the Federal Drug Administration (FDA).
The differentiation between various bacterial strains has identified “good” bacteria from the “bad” bacteria, leading to the rise of probiotics. According to statistics compiled by the National Center for Complementary and Integrative Health (NIH),
- More than 3.9 million adults in the United States use probiotics. That’s 1.6% of the general adult population.
- The use of probiotics by adults in the United States was four times higher in 2012 than in 2007.
- Around 294,000 children in the United States use probiotics. That’s 0.5% of the general child population.
- In 2012, probiotics was among the top three natural products used by children.
Probiotics are live bacteria and yeasts that aid the health and robust functioning of the digestive system. They fight against bloating, stomach cramps and other digestion issues, by blocking pathogens and maintaining the microbiome integrity of the gut. While the positives of ingesting probiotics in food and supplement form have been extensively extrapolated, their role in skincare is the new big trend in skincare.
The natural bacterial ecosystem of the skin is intrinsically protective and key to dermal health. But this ecosystem is often compromised by broad range skincare products that emphasize “maximum cleanliness”, the result being skin that is dull, dry and stressed. As noted by Dr. Matthew Zirwas, Director of the Ohio Contact Dermatitis Center, there has been a rise in skin irritation problems from yeast overgrowth, a sign that good skin microbes are missing.
“Certain common ingredients in personal care products, like the zinc pyrithione found in dandruff shampoos, and some alcohols found in products like toners, can also kill off good bacteria.”
When applied topically, probiotics can influence the skin microflora positively. The live bacterial culture produces acidic compounds like lactic acid through fermentation, which reduces the pH of the skin. This acidification process dissuades most pathogens from growing, favoring instead the flourishing of “good” bacteria. Probiotics also produce powerful antimicrobials like bacteriocidins, organic acids and hydrogen peroxide that prevent pathogen adhesion.
Although probiotics have considerable skin benefits, live cultures are usually not incorporated into cosmetics. Prebiotics on the other hand, are easily infused into skincare products and are a viable alternative to live bacteria. Prebiotics are non- digestible carbohydrates from plant sources that essentially serve as food for “good” bacteria while staving off the “bad” bacteria.
Another popular option for cosmetic formulations are bacterial cell lysates. Lysates consist of cell walls, dead bacteria and bacterial metabolites.
Together with prebiotics and bacterial cell lysates, probiotic skincare offers many benefits:
Sensitive Skin
Sensitive skin is slow to repair itself after suffering trauma, but topical probiotics boost the healing process by strengthening the skin’s defense walls. One example is the bacterium Streptococcus thermophiles, which has high levels of sphingomyelinase. A cream containing the lysate of S. thermophiles was found to significantly increase stratum cormeum ceramide levels as well as skin hydration in women after two weeks of application.
Skin Youth
Pollution in cities and UV rays lead to greater skin exposure to free radicals. This accelerates skin ageing and the appearance of wrinkles. Probiotics step in to soothe the immune system’s natural triggers to free radicals, thus reducing the damage to collagen, elastin and other healthy cells.
Eczema
Many studies have shown the relationship between bacteria in the gut and skin conditions. In the United States, 31.6 million people have some form of eczema. Eczema is characterized by red, itchy rashes on the skin. While there is no cure for the condition, some probiotic strains have demonstrated holistic properties by fighting inflammation and immune dysfunction. In one study from Finland, pregnant women with strong family histories of itchy skin problems, took probiotic supplements containing Lactobacillus rhamnosus GG for two to four weeks prior to giving birth. After delivery, the women continued to take the supplements while breastfeeding, or added the bacteria to infant formula for at least six months. Researchers found that probiotics reduced the incidence of eczema in the babies until at least age 2, and even longer.
Rosacea
When the immune system categorizes living microorganisms on the skin as foreign, it launches an attack to counter this potential threat. This leads to inflammation, redness and bumps on the skin. Probiotics applied topically over the skin surface, prevent skin cells from triggering an immune response. This is known as bacterial interference, as probiotics interfere with the ability of “bad bacteria” to aggravate the immune system.
Acne- Prone Skin
Topical products containing probiotics and their lysates are effective in treating acne, and have been suggested as an alternative to topical antibiotics. A 2012 clinical study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science found that a solution containing 5% lactobacillus, a bacterial strain commonly found in yogurt, significantly reduced active skin lesions in participants. The probiotics applied to the skin form a protective barrier that resists harmful bacteria from exacerbating immune responses and skin inflammation.
The global probiotics market is expected to grow at a CAGR of 10.3%, and estimated to reach $60.5 billion by 2022. Consumer demand is driven by increasing health concerns and the effectiveness of “good” bacteria in improving gut and skin related disorders. With increased disposable income and the far-reaching power of social media, consumers are able to adopt styles and products from anywhere in the world. This makes probiotic skincare one of the hottest trends for 2017.